City Lights Bookstore

Location: San Francisco, California
Overview:
Founded in 1953 by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, City Lights Bookstore is a legendary independent bookstore and a cultural landmark in San Francisco. This space—where literature, art, and political thought intersect—has long drawn culture enthusiasts and travelers from all over the world.

City Lights became a pivotal force in cultural history with the publication of Allen Ginsberg’s poem Howl. In 1956, Ginsberg’s raw, beautiful verse shook young Americans as a searing indictment of hypocrisy and repression in society. Though Howl was charged with obscenity, the ensuing trial ended in victory for the bookstore—establishing a crucial legal precedent for freedom of expression.

The poem’s explosive language reverberated far beyond literature, influencing the music scene as well. Bob Dylan, a close friend of Ginsberg’s, famously wove poetic and critical elements into his lyrics. Ginsberg’s words also became deeply embedded in the spirit of hippie culture, the countercultural movements of the 1960s, and the psychedelic rock and folk scenes rooted in San Francisco.

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“I saw the best minds of my generation destroyed by madness, starving hysterical naked.”
—Howl by Allen Ginsberg

“I’m from Japan. I’m a huge fan of Kerouac,” I said. Bob smiled warmly.

The Beat Museum—marked by a mural of Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady—sits just around the corner from City Lights. Yet unlike the bustling bookstore, the museum was quiet and still. On that day, we were the only visitors.

That may be why Bob, the staff member, spoke to us with such passion. He recited poems, shared stories about the Beats, and even spoke of a bookstore in Tokyo devoted to Beat literature. At the end, he read us one of his own haiku about spring. Yes—he writes haiku too.

People who love Beat literature always seem effortlessly cool. Ever since we discovered that the roots of everything we love about American culture could be traced back to this movement, we’ve been collecting books, retracing the footsteps of its pioneers—and now, we’d finally made it here. Luckily, the Bay Area feels like our American hometown.

After parting ways with Bob, we walked three minutes to City Lights. That sharp, triangular building—no matter how many times we see it—never fails to command awe.

Once inside, we turned right and found the narrow staircase leading up to the legendary Poetry Room. The walls were plastered with photos and artifacts of Kerouac, Cassady, and others. With each step, our hearts beat faster. We couldn’t help but wonder—had all the greats in music, art, and fashion once climbed these same stairs, feeling the same way?

At the top, the room opened up into a small, hideaway-like space, bathed in soft sunlight through its windows. Once pulsing with unstoppable urges and furious energy, the room now radiated quiet calm.

Then Ryo pulled down a copy of Howl—the book that broke through boundaries and defined an era.

Sitting in a sun-drenched chair tucked in the corner,
he began to read that famous first line.